In The Metal: Panerai Luminor Due Luna
Editor Catherine Bishop takes the new Panerai Luminor Due Luna editions for a spin. The watches mark the first time that the Luminor Due has integrated a complication – and what better way to start than with a moonphase?To get more news about
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New moon, waxing crescent, first quarter, waxing gibbous, full moon, waning gibbous, third quarter, waning crescent – back to new moon. These are the eight phases of the Moon. The Moon is our planet’s only natural satellite, pushing our oceans’ tides back and forth, while illuminating the starry sky each night for eternity and beyond.
While the scientists of today agree that the Moon was formed by a rock smashing into the Earth, ancient civilizations had their own ideas about the Moon. The Romans believed that the goddess Luna was the divine embodiment of the Moon; the ancient Greeks considered the Moon to be the goddess Artemis, sister to Apollo, god of the Sun. Even today, the Moon is universally upheld as a feminine symbol of the natural cycles of life and the rhythm of time. How fitting, then, that Panerai should introduce its own moonphase complication to the elegant Luminor Due Luna models, which is sure to draw many a female client to the Swiss-Italian brand.
The new Luminor Due Luna timepieces mark a first for the Luminor Due collection, which had never before integrated a complication into one of its watches. One reason for this is that the Luminor Due watches, first introduced back in 2016, are much slimmer than their diving watch relatives in the main Luminor collection. Stretching between 44 and 47 mm in diameter – there’s even a gigantic 50 mm moonphase model – the contemporary, stream-lined Luminor is sporty and bold.
By contrast, the Luminor Due collection maintains sharp proportions yet has a more elegant feel and smaller sizes. This line is as close as Panerai comes to a dress watch, while still maintaining the brand’s unmistakable DNA cues. On the one hand, we still see Panerai’s distinctive cushion case, sandwich dial, and curved Arabic and baton hour markers. Yet on the other hand, the Luminor Due features radiant sun-brushed dials; sleek alligator leather straps – and one of the four new models even features a mother-of-pearl dial.
The new iterations with moonphase are housed in 38 mm cases, with one Goldtech (Panerai’s rose-gold alloy) and three steel options available. Interestingly, only the former allows the wearer to admire the movement through the caseback, while the other editions stick to solid steel casebacks. The cases, in combination with the Safety Lock crown, promise water-resistance to 30 m. This level of water-resistance feels like a courteous nod to the DNA of the brand above anything else, as these are not supposed to be action-packed watches.
The crown protector does deserve a special mention, however. Not only is the design enjoyable, as well as reassuring, for the wearer, but it also add a very individual aesthetic spin to the Luminor Due Luna in comparison to other sporty dress watches on the market. The integration of such a tool-watch feature onto an otherwise rather gracefully designed timepiece is very unusual, and Panerai execute it extremely well.
This is partly thanks to the flawless polishing of the crown protector. The cases and bezels of all the Luminor Due Luna models are polished, adding to the argument that these are fairly smart timepieces. However, the one steel edition to come with a matching bracelet, as opposed to alligator leather strap, does alternate between polished and brushed steel, making for a well-finished look overall – but more on this a little later.
