Dizzee Rascal had a customised pair, Adidas Stan Smith Womens basketball Adidas Superstar Damen star LeBron James an entire line, and clubbers, hip-hop stars and runners throughout the 1990s would rarely be seen without them. Now, on the 25th anniversary of the Air Max, Nike's most famous cushioned trainer, the shoes are enjoying another surge in popularity.

Spotted on the feet of celebrities ranging from Rita Ora to Barack Obama, the bubble-soled shoes have transcended their origins to become a coveted wardrobe staple, embraced across the worlds of fashion and music. "It's not just about any old pair. Labels, styles and specific details are all-important," said Hannah Almassi, fashion editor of Grazia magazine, who said that owning a pair of 90s kicks had become an obsession for trainer fans.

Online retailer Asos reports a significant increase in sales for the latest spring/summer 2013 range. "We have seen a 3Nike Air Max 90 Damen 20% growth on Nike Air Huarache WomensNike Air Max trainers on the same period for the previous year, making them the casual wardrobe staple," said Nichola Carroll, branded footwear buyer for Asos. "There has been an increase across all trainers. Key styles range from branded retro running styles, such as New Balance, to high- and low-tops, with bold colours proving popular."

David Spencer, product and marketing director for footwear retailer Schuh, said the trend is part of a sports fashion revival: "Nineties sport is the footwear of choice and we have seen a massive uplift in sales for this type of footwear, especially on ladies – where we are seeing girls who aren't traditionally sports customers buying into the trend too."

The 80s was an era of big money, big hair and even bigger phones and Nike executives responded in 1987 with the Air Max shoe Nike Air Max 1 Femme and its air bubble visible on the side of the midsole. The design dominated the 1990s and could be spotted in marathons, hip-hop videos and on LP sleeves. A UK forensic science service database study in 2007 found that the Air Max 95 was the favourite footwear for criminals as it was the most popular footprint at crime scenes.

Another explanation is found in the dance music revival. Clubbers are embracing the original dance music accessory – Air Max 90s – and the 90s deep house sound is very much back. It is defined not only by the music people are listening to, but by the way they are dancing and the clothes they are wearing. Adam Saville, clubs editor for the publication DJ Mag, says that there is now a fascination with the original 90s sound and style as people have access on YouTube and the internet to the history of the genre. "When the future's bleak, there's a fetishisation of what came before. People are looking back as if it was some sort of golden age," he said.

In the early 90s, as the house and rave scene developed, there was a practical element to the shoe. "People were dancing all night or awake 24 hours at a time," said Ben Banks, co-founder of menswear and lifestyle website Oki-ni. "It wasn't like going to a glamorous, luxury nightclub dressed up to the nines, it was very dressed down, people were wearing more comfortable footwear and baggy clothing."